The annual spiritual pilgrimage to honour Erzulie Dantor and the Virgin Mary of Mount Carmel took a dramatic detour this year, as thousands of Haitian faithful climbed a steep hill in rural Port-au-Prince instead of gathering at the traditional site of Saut-d’Eau.
For decades, the 100-foot sacred waterfall at Saut-d’Eau, located roughly 50 kilometers north of the capital, has drawn believers of both Voodoo and Roman Catholicism. But in March, violent gangs overran the area, making it inaccessible to pilgrims. The town remains under their control, forcing this year’s observance to relocate to the outskirts of the capital.
Despite the shift, the devotion remained undeterred.
“It is important to celebrate the mother’s day anyway, and I came here to thank her,” said a Voodoo priest, who asked to remain anonymous.
Voodoo, officially recognized in 2003 by then-President Jean-Bertrand Aristide, is a complex spiritual tradition rooted in African religious practices and blended with Catholic symbolism. The Virgin Mary of Mount Carmel, revered by Catholics, is closely associated with the Voodoo goddess Erzulie Dantor, known as the fierce protector of women and children.
On Wednesday, social media footage circulated showing armed members of the Canaan gang occupying the very church at Saut-d’Eau that had hosted the pilgrimage’s annual Mass in years past. The video underscored how the gang crisis continues to displace not just people, but traditions.
In Port-au-Prince, the temporary sanctuary overflowed as people prayed for national peace and personal blessings. During the service, Monsignor Sander Louis-Jean urged unity and resilience.
“It is what the Virgin Mary, our mother, wants – unity,” he told the crowd.
The forced shift in sacred geography is just one of many disruptions caused by escalating gang violence in Haiti. According to United Nations figures, over 5,600 people have been killed in gang-related attacks in 2024 alone, making spiritual observances like this one all the more urgent for Haitians seeking hope.
As the pilgrims made their way back down the hillside, one truth echoed through their prayers: even when sacred ground is taken, faith moves forward.
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